Is A Wine Aerator Worth It? Our Decanting Taste Test
We will be the first to give it to you: although we have a lot of wine, and even made one of our resolutions to drink more in 2013, we are by no means experts. So, sometimes someone says to us, “We have to cut wine” or “really have to try a wine-maker,” we get a little suspicious. We are especially weirdos who like to blind themselves to taste wine and report back on what we think. Like most things we wonder, wine aeration needs a taste test.
We stopped at our local wine and liquor store and asked one of our trusted advisors for some help. We wanted a moderately priced bottle of very drinkable wine that really benefited from breathing. That he recommended to decant for an hour before he drinks. We tried not to tell him what other indifferent tricks.
We had four different versions of the same wine to try: straight from the bottle after we had pulled the cork, pouring through an aeration jug that sticks you into the wine bottle neck, traditionally cooled as recommended and finally (the most exciting version) ubesto Aerator. If you have never heard of Ubesto Aerator it’s the controversial practice of pulsating wine in a Aerator to listen quickly, as a pioneer of cooking crazy scientist Nathan Myhrvold, the author of the “Modernist Kitchen”.
The verdict? With a few exceptions, we generally agreed that the same wine directly from a bottle is almost identical to wine poured by an aerator (we used it). Once we came to the third wine, which was traditionally cooled down, everyone took a clear knowledge of new flavors, mellow alcohol and pleasant aroma. Then it became interesting. The fourth cup of wine, which was Ubesto Aerator in a blender, threw us all for a loop. Some of us thought it was a mixer, some thought it was tasty and what was better. On the whole, we agreed that traditionally decanted wine was our favorite.
But if you’re short on time, blitz those in a mixer and probably nobody will be the pointer.
DOES THE UBESTO WINE AERATOR REALLY IMPROVE WINE?
Love wine, but tired of pouring it into a carafe and waiting for more than 30 seconds to drink it? Good news! If you assume that you have Yuppie friends, it is a great chance that you will receive an Ubesto wine bottle advertiser this year. They are all the rage (especially those that already have The Canine bottle opener).
The Ubesto Winner is a 6-inch device that seems a bit like a funnel and is intended to accelerate the decanter process. To use it, pour the wine through the Ubesto into your glass and watch the device use Bernoulli’s Principal, which explains that as the velocity of a fluid increases, the pressure inside it decreases. According to an Ubesto rep, “this accelerates the natural mixing of air and wine, revealing its true essence and character.” In other words, the Ubesto claims that it can do in a matter of seconds what a decanter does in an hour or more. That sounds good. But sounds gimmicky too.
We sat with the New York sommeliers Michael Madrigale (Bar Boulud, Boulud Sud), Francesco Grosso (Marea) and Jordan Salcito (Crown) for a blind tasting to find out if an Ubesto really delivers a better glass of wine.
A total of four wines of different styles were blinded in four flights; each flight consisted of a glass poured directly into the glass and one poured into the glass by the Ubesto aerator. Every sommelier was asked to choose the wine they preferred and to discuss the differences between the two glasses in each flight.
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